PUT HE MUSSELS IN a large bowl and completely submerge them in cold water. Discard any mussels that are open or broken/ Drain the mussels.
Place a heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Add the mussels and cook undisturbed for 1 minute. Add 1/4 cup water to the pot, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the mussel shells pop open, about 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and discard any mussels that have not opened. Once the mussels are cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the shells and set aside in a medium bowl; discard the shells. Strain the delicious cooking juices through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium bowl, stopping just before you get to any sandy bits at the bottom of the pot (discard the sandy bits).
In a large heavy bottomed soup pot heat a good drizzle of olive oil over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook just until it begins to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the leeks, celery, onion, garlic, a good sprinkle of salt and a few turns of pepper. Stir to combine and add the bay leaves and thyme. Cook stirring frequently until the vegetables are soft and translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Raise the heat a smidge, add the flour, and stir well. Add the wine and stir constantly for a minute. Add the potatoes, another healthy sprinkle of the salt, and a few cracks of pepper and reduce the heat to low. Add the cold butter and lime zest, stirring constantly until the butter is completely melted. Add the reserved mussel juices, plus the milk and cream, and cook, stirring occasionally until the potatoes are cooked through and tender 15 to 20 minutes. Add the mussels and taste for seasoning adjusting as needed. Divide the chowder among bowls, drizzle with lime juice , and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve.
